Fashion Show: The Best of New York Fashion Week - Spring 2010

Sunday, May 23, 2010

The Best of New York Fashion Week - Spring 2010

Marc Jacobs is in that enviable and exclusive club of designers who have free range to explore and stretch their imagination while still pulling in the customers. In less-deft hands, his spring collection, rife with dramatic curlicues of silk, full-on hanky motifs, and many, many innerwear-as-outerwear nods, would flounder. But in Marc's, it was one of those shows that made the jaded fashion crowd love its job.

Marc Jacobs: Sculptural ruffles at the shoulders, and ruffle swirls on the skirt.

Marc Jacobs: Ruffles again, this time butched up by a military-green jacket.

Marc Jacobs: Head-to-thigh ruffles!

Marc Jacobs: Angelic ruffles.

Marc by Marc Jacobs
She's kookie, she's cute, she's got a crazy-cool way of dressing. She's the Marc by Marc Jacobs girl. For spring, her overt '80s references have subsided...a bit. There are still strong shoulders and bright-bright colors. But it's all a cheerful affair — the big plaids, the vibrant prints, the ruffles, ruches and pleats, and the underlying impression that these girls want to have a good time.

Marc by Marc Jacobs: Ruffles, rompers and bows, oh my.

Marc by Marc Jacobs: Looking pretty in plaid.

Marc by Marc Jacobs: Big shoulders: officially sticking around for another season.

Marc by Marc Jacobs: A final, huge, juicy pop of color to end the show.

Carolina Herrera
Carolina Herrera started with a humble Japanese basket, and from there unfurled her spring collection. Her inspiration translated through the woven details she peppered throughout. But of course, hers came via silk linen jacquards and wood-tile embellishments. It was, as always, proper and sophisticated.

Carolina Herrera: Rich texture defines this ivory raffia blouse with a beaded jacquard skirt and leather rope belt.

Carolina Herrera: Summer sunset colors — rose, amber and caramel — created a subtle, sophisticated glow.

Carolina Herrera: Her new take on the summer suit balanced youthful elements, like thigh-grazing shorts, with grown-up fabrics.

Carolina Herrera: Look for the basket-weave look throughout Carolina's entire collection this spring.

It's not just the cool girls who appreciate and wear Thakoon Panichgul's wares. It's smart girls. His clothes navigate that had hard-to-balance line between intellectual and wearable. His tricks, like blossomed-out pleats and bondage-like tightness played against swells of fabric, support his ideas of "design." But like we said, it's all still wearable — and that's the most important.

Thakoon: Painted, pretty florals with a loose-tight silhouette somehow still flatter the hips.

Thakoon: More soft florals and easy draping.

Thakoon: A super-sporty suit with an über-modern dash of electric blue.

Thakoon: This aquatic seafoam-printed draping creates a walk on the ocean.

Derek Lam
Derek Lam showed his patriotic roots for spring. No, there were no literal stars and stripes (oh wait, there were some stars — but done so chicly), but there was some of that wanna-buy-it American sportswear that Lam established his name with. There were any number of easy dresses, but all with some sort of great detail (a petal-like front, a glittering floral, a swoop-front hem). And he did it with some edge — a close fit here, a peekaboo of thigh there — and a smorgasbord of prints.

Derek Lam: A beach-worthy floral jumper dressed up for evening with a white tuxedo jacket.

Derek Lam: Pink pants just right for pool-side.

Derek Lam: A dramatic final look.

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