Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week Showcases Creativity of Designers

Asia's biggest business of fashion event, Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week 2010 (WIFW), introduced, from 24 through 28 March 2010 an assortment of striking collections from 130 designers on the runway and the exhibition areas. With 43 shows and 130 stalls, the premier event offered five enthralling days of inspiration, ingenuity and imagination aligned with business opportunities. The event which is a fashion kaleidoscope brought a diversity of talent on the runway. The show highlighted its multicultural philosophy with ensembles that held the commercial appeal all under one roof at NSIC Exhibition Complex. WIFW is the perfect platform that allows style gurus to showcase their collection to domestic and international buyers, media, design schools and fashionistas. Most importantly, it lets the industry know what's 'in' and what's' out' for the season.

Though there were indeed a large number of designers, whose collections made it to our short list, but even this list had to be further pruned to only 12 designers, who could be accommodated in our present write-up.

Young Masaba's Exuberated Festivity Creates Festival Masala

Probably the youngest of the lot, Masaba is known for her patchworks and colours. Her collection exuberated festivity and excitement as her face on the ramp. It was a festive traditional line with a lot of velvet coupled with silks. Silhouettes included dhotis and angrakhas. She, yet again, proved that she belongs to the talented new lot of the promising few, as she showcased her creations at the WIFW NW 2010. This was a collection of men's and women's couture, with extensive use of velvets and silks. It gave a sneak-peek into the Rajasthani culture.

The antique gold embroidery, beadwork and zari added a dramatic touch. What really caught our attention were her mul silk sarees with stripes on pleats and plane border pallus. The highlight was saris with appliqued pockets. Multi fabric churidaar sleeve blouses, patch worked angrakhas with dhoti pants were a super hit on the ramp. The patchwork, doriwork and gold embroidery on a colour palette of sindoor red, leaf green with whites gave the collection a traditional yet rustic appeal. The collection is sure to catch the attention of Indian styleconscious sari wearers and is aimed at appealing the Middle-eastern market.

Tarun Tahiliani Returns to Craft

Tarun Hahiliani's collection is the refection of Indian craft. The surface treatments clearly show the values, richness, workmanship and the role of Indian craft in fashion. The designer has again successfully explored our traditional textiles and embroideries and applied it in Indo Western as well as Indian ethnic silhouettes. Fitted structured jackets were combined with drapery bottoms to create the elusion of IndoWestern drapes. Traditional saris were draped with both short length waist coats and long tailored coats to lend richness to the clothes and make the collection look truly global. Trademark sari drapes, embroidered belts paired with clunky platform shoes, long tailored coats with kaftans were adding a masculine chic look. The designer played smartly with various surface treatments like quilting, chikankari, and prints with natural dyes.

The colour palette varies from deep honey golds, ambers, Prussian blues, wine reds to transparent black, earthy brown, shades of green and blue. His menswear collection was based on classic silhouettes which were again reworked to create the traditional look. The coats, achkans and bundies with wide pants were very much prominent with colours like mushroom, charcoal, chocolates and blacks. The collection certainly reminds us of our traditional route and has a sense of pride for our cultural values.

Pankaj & Nidhi Draw Inspiration from Samurai Armour

Their collection draws inspiration from the 18th century samurai armour which was made with interlaced materials hand-pieced together using a complex weaving technique. The ensembles showcased strong contrasts between black and ivory, charcoal and cloud greys in addition to Kimono colours like sap green, orchid and flame orange. With their chic and dramatic use of colours and geometrics, they have created a collection springing energy and oomph.

Payal Jain Inspired by Mystic Allure of Solitary Monk

Payal Jain's collection at WIFW NW 2010 was inspired by the mystic allure of the historical textiles and the bewitching lifestyle of the monks in Laos.

The peace and serenity that emanates from the monks holds the vast range of silhouettes together, be it draped dresses, flowing tunics, structured jackets, bias skirts, prayer pants, draped shells or form-fitted stirrups. The key feature of her collection was reverse construction of garments with obviously visible seams, overlocking and bandings to enhance the simplicity of the ensembles. The treatments and specially designed prints were vibrant, multidimensional, warm and inspired by old Laos textiles handed down over generations.

Fabrics ranging from linen and cotton jersey to hand woven khadi to self jacquards and soft flowing silk jerseys are draped and styled into clean, crisp and simple ensembles. The focus of her collection remains the denim washes and the worn-out effects created to give a rustic, raw and antique illusion. The unorthodox usage of colour, print, texture and fabrics was the most inspiring feature of her collection. The purity and simplicity of form, yarn, detail and surface texturisation is what makes these silhouettes unique.

Rehane's Exotic expressions

Rehane, in her collection titled Antolio', drew her inspiration from all things in ' Asia Minor '. Her WIFW NW 2010 line presented a vibrant and exotic collection in a bold lookher signature style.

The colour story for this collection was strongly salmon, deep aqua, turkish blue and antique gold. Rehane emphasised a lot on the cuts which were structured yet complimenting the female silhouette. A dominant influence of Turkey was seen in the collection. In keeping with the contemporary and bold look, a lot of black with red floral embroidery was also dominant in the designer's collection. Semi circular pockets with detailing, embroidered back yokes and baby doll styled dresses flounced at the waist were a delight for the onlookers. The fabrics used varied from jacquard to satin and velvet to georgettes. A feminine, chic, playful and elegant collection.

Charu Parashar's 'Hidden Warrior in a Woman'

Charu Parashar showcased her collection named 'Shooma Macq Bool Hasteen' at the WIFW NW 2010. The show started with dim lights and four models tied from top to toe like mummies with bandages standing still on the golden ramp with only their black eyes peeping out as a sign of life.

Adhering to her signature style, prints were seen once again blended with knits. There were strong influences of bright Egyptian and Persian geometrics in these prints imparting a multi-dimensional feel. The colour palette was a range of wintry dominant black with touches of turquoise, ivory, yellow, sea green and fuschia. The fabrics had fluid drapes giving a luxurious feel by the use of silks, chiffons, satins and cotton. Fabrics were painstakingly constructed with fine quilting techniques, crinkled effects, tassels, gathers and anchor threads.

Silhouettes emphasised on drapes and construction. There was a psychedelic array of geometric prints on Iycra leggings, highlighting the ensembles. The styles were dominated by dresses in various lengths, kaftans, hooded jumpsuits and jackets, bringing out the warrior element by the use of padded and extended shoulder. The models were carrying bronze and silver oxidized metal head gears and chest armours.

Puja Arya's Flashbac

Her collection was true to the whims of a girl from the urban jungle, chic yet playful, nostalgic, focusing on silhouettes from the 50s & 60s with bested jackets, sequined bolero, the ever favorite mini skirt and belted dresses. In Arya's signature style, the emphasis was on the waist, puff short dresses and saris.

The ensuing ensembles were in handcrafted silk, satins, silk chiffon, silk crepe, silk chanderi and mulmul. She gave keen attention to the detailing and surface treatment with the use of pleating, Indian gota patch work and sequined flower motifs. The artistic masterful hand block prints moved from graphic geometrics to geometric flower motifs. The colour palette ranged from the stark cityscape black and white, checks, to mulled sunny yellows, effervescent greys, breezy lilacs complimented by scrumptious aubergine culminating in a lipstick pink.

Ashii by Ashima Singh

Ashima Singh's collection at WIFW A/W 2010 drew inspiration from Madhubani and Mithla paintings of Bihar. Ashima is known for uniting various techniques from India's rich heritage and incorporating traditional trends into modern fashion. For mounting this collection, she had worked with the artisans, built on their traditional skills and created contemporary hues and designs. It was a nice amalgamation of Western ensembles with the traditional art form of Madhubani.

The colour palette dealt with an ivory base hand painted with colours like green, orange, pale yellow, brown and blue. She used fabrics like raw silk, matkas and cotton. The silhouettes were very Western with detailing of ethnic, traditional Indian art form which made it very progressive. Design elements included puffed sleeves, sharp cuts, Western jackets and drapes. Even the footwear had a touch of Madhubani motifs with detailed black outlines. Handcrafted tassels had their own charm which were placed on various areas like shoulder, empire line and waistline.

Monapali's Resort Elegance

Mona Pali showcased their WIFW NW 2010 collection where resort wear meets tribal, paying ode to the exquisite craft of filigree, the fine jaali work in the collection. Tradition was intertwined with modern sensi bility, old fashioned charm mixed with contemporary eclecticism, a rich sensuality mingled with polished and urban serenity. There was a huge variety of surface treatments. Embroidery was delicate, using mesh, bead, thread, dori with hand paint, discharge print and bold graphical patterns to bend in an easy silhouette in soft sensual fabrics that formed the backbone of the collection. There was a rawness and earthiness in it, juxtaposed with sophistication and elegance.

Fabrics were soft and elegant with rustic, matt, structured materials like chiffon blends, satin and net played around with brocade, madras silk and rich Banarasi kheem khab. The colour palette was vibrant with blue, purple, red, yellow, fuschia, green, wine and orange. Applique, dori and thread work added to the dramatic flair. The silhouettes were a mix of modern and classical cuts with fusion as the mainstay. Dresses, kaftans, tunics, skirts, tops, bustiers and saris find their way into the collection. It was soft, sensual and elegant.

Nida Mahmood's Gritty Vibrant 'Sadak Chhaap'

Nida Mahmmood showcased her WIFW NW 2010 collection 'Sadak Chhaap' where the essence comes from the gritty vibrant alleys of India. The range took elements from scraps and products sold on the Indian streets. It gave a feel of the delightful amalgamation of colours, music and kitsch. The colour palette ranged from beige shades to dirty muddy camel hues, stark reds, electric blue to tangerine and indigo purple, gold, copper, acid green and some fuschias with warm yellow and shades of grey.

The collection flowed with georgettes, crepes, nets, silks for fluidity and feminity, while some thick cottons and leather lent structure to the garments. The accessories and head gears were bright and colourful, adding to flamboyance and cheerfulness of the theme. They were loud and showy, accessorised with local plastic toys, ping pong balls, plastic masks of Goddesses, chips packets, slogans from local hoardings, metallic shiny mesh, recycled masala packets to name a few.

Rahul Mishra Flies High

Rahul Mishra showcased his WIFW NW 2010 collection the 'Butterfly Effect', portraying the journey of the human race and the process of metamorphosis our planet had undergone in the last century. It shows global warming as our biggest concern. The collection is an outcome of engineered art works inspired by M Escher's Work and Urban Landscape. Hand crafted Aari work created graphic surfaces in the forms of optical illusions of 2D and 3D.

The day wear look was achieved using sheer Chanderis and double weave organza with subtle selfsurface techniques. A chic, reversible, clean look is presented with rich jacquard silk jackets.

The colour palette was dominated by classic black and whites, used innovatively in various styles, including dresses. The collection contained wrap dresses with butterfly motifs, off shoulder dress with spaghetti straps, reversible jackets in jacquard, knee length dresses peeping from underneath, short reversible strap dress, reversible single layer double breasted jackets, long overcoats, dupion trousers, bustier dress, double breasted jumpsuit, off shoulder gown. These added to simple feminism with design elements like cap sleeves, pockets, layers, baby tucks, quilts and ruffles.

Grand Finale by Rajesh Pratap Singh's Bespoke Tales

The Grand Finale show by Rajesh Pratap Singh had a lot of interesting elements to it like the widened ramp and the background created by unfinished garments ... He deserves all the accolades for combining beautifully his creation, originality and simplicity. Though there was a lot of cheer in the audience but some in the audience were left fretting. "We expect a different level of grandness from the grand finale," said a fashion critic who did not want to be named!

Rajesh Pratap Singh's grand finale collection 'Bespoke Tales' for WIFW NW 2010 expressed the progression of the fine art of making clothes as seen by the ingenious tailor. Models emerged from the wide background walking through the unfinished muslin garments hanging in a surreal fashion. The detailed collection was splendid with a fabulous combination of creativity, originality and simplicity showcasing strong craftsmanship. The range all about 'Us & Them' was a play of contrasts with many shades, techniques and styles to it, featuring transparent and opaque, matt and copper/silver, black/red sequence. The collection displayed hard and soft stroke and structured clothing softly molded with creativity at its best. The garments were hand woven, reversible and double clothed. Fabrics were mainly satins, leather, glass nylon and woolen suiting fabrics.

Rajesh Pratap Singh's grand finale collection 'Bespoke Tales' for WIFW NW 2010 expressed the progression of the fine art of making clothes as seen by the ingenious tailor. Models emerged from the wide background walking through the unfinished muslin garments hanging in a surreal fashion. The detailed collection was splendid with a fabulous combination of creativity, originality and simplicity showcasing strong craftsmanship. The range all about 'Us & Them' was a play of contrasts with many shades, techniques and styles to it, featuring transparent and opaque, matt and copper/silver, black/red sequence. The collection displayed hard and soft stroke and structured clothing softly molded with creativity at its best. The garments were hand woven, reversible and double clothed. Fabrics were mainly satins, leather, glass nylon and woolen suiting fabrics.